October 2, 2018

We spent a whole three months in Pearl Lagoon, our plan was to stay there much longer. At least a year was our idea. We kept ourselves busy while there, and I hardly had time to write anything for this blog. We've kept on with our struggle to stabilize our situation, only to be continually let down by the system. At least we are in good health and still together.

We've kept on in our attempts to get into Canada. Its been more than 4 years now since I left and I haven't been back even once. I am not willing to go without Jean. The political situation in Nicaragua still has not affected the brothers in the Atlantic coast significantly so this wasn't a concern for us. We decided to keep on pursuing the possibility of me getting residency in Nicaragua so that we could both be legal permanent residents of the same country. After going through lawyers, spending money we didn't have to spend, lots of visa runs, and fixing papers that the judge had filled out incorrectly we finally had everything in order.

Unfortunately, now there is no way for me to get residency in Nicaragua even though I am married to a Nicaraguan citizen. The reasons are unclear, but I know I'm not the only one in this situation. I met a man with his lawyer in Managua who had just been told to start over again because all the requirements have changed. Furthermore, immigration told me that I have to leave. I am no longer allowed to cross the border into Costa Rica and return (even if longer than 3 days) because I have been in Nicaragua too long. They wanted me to return to my country. In effect we are being forced to leave Nicaragua. Obviously, we leave together.

Since Canada is also making it impossible for us to go to my country, we've decided to consult the internet for a list of countries where both of us can go without a visa. The number of options was actually quite surprising and encouraging. There are a lot of exciting, interesting, and beautiful countries (affordable too!) that will allow us to live there at least for a time without having to worry about immigration papers. This should give us enough time to finally get the papers for Jean to come with me to Canada.

Because the country we are currently in doesn't enjoy the same level of safety as Nicaragua, I'll be deliberately vague on our exact location. But its cheap, the food is amazing, and I'm wearing a winter jacket while typing this. And the town we live in does have a reputation for relative safety.

I'll admit i'm surprised how difficult its been for me, a 4th generation Canadian citizen to bring his own wife into the country, even after being married for three years. It isn't impossible, in theory we can go eventually. The problem is the first two times we tried to go, our intention was not to stay in Canada. We wanted to return to Nicaragua after a quick visit with my family. So naturally we applied for a visitor visa. It was denied both times, for reasons that I couldn't understand at the time. Interestingly though, there is a provision where Canadian citizens can demand information pertaining to them from the government. Its similar to the United State's "freedom of information" act.

Imagine my surprise on reading the immigration officer's personal comments to his supervisors that were written on my wife's application. He didn't read it. He saw "Nicaragua" "Canadian husband" and denied it. He saw a clever Nicaraguan trying to cheat her way into Canada to steal jobs, with a fake marriage to a Canadian that doesn't exist. Its very disappointing to be called a liar by your own country, to be denied the right to go home by someone that might not even be a Canadian themselves. I did some digging, the application was processed in Mexico, and in Mexico just like Nicaragua most of the embassy workers are locals. The only person working at the Canadian embassy in Nicaragua for example can barely speak English at all.

Our only option now is to go for the complete Canadian residency. Jean can apply for this from outside the country and hopefully they actually read this one. For this one we only have to prove to them that we are really married. Maybe the fact that I haven't come home for four years will convince them? Or maybe they will even read this blog. It would be a nice change of pace if they started reading things they're supposed to.

In any case were having a great time where we are. We are high in the mountains at an altitude of over 2,000 meters. Thats right, meters. The first week or so we felt short of breath but now we're feeling normal again. Actually, with the cool weather we feel like we have even more energy to get things done. The city we live in has a reputation of enacting "street justice" on thieves and as a result the crime rate is surprisingly low. Its common to see people walking in the street at night, unafraid to use their smartphones in public. The cost of some things is higher than in Nicaragua, as its a more developed country by far. However the cost of food is much lower, probably due to the amount farming in the area, especially of green veggies and fruit. In the end we spend less overall, and we have the opportunity to go places like McDonalds once in a while. There is even a Walmart here.

Shark wrestling

Well after another 6 months in Nicaragua its time again for me to make a visa run to Costa Rica. Now that I am Married to a Nicaraguan, according to immigration I may apply for Residency after one year of marriage. In the meantime however, I must still make visa runs. This time I made plans to stay in La Cruz for the 3 days that I need to be out of the country.

Some say you can go back the same day, but there are conflicting opinions on this and I'll talk more about that later. Jean and I left Corn Island in the night on Tuesday, we were able to get a ride on a fishing boat headed for bluefields since the captain was a friend of some of the brothers. We arrived in Bluefields at sunrise, and made our way to the "panga pit". We parted ways temporarily at this point, since Jean obviously does not need to leave the country she will stay with her parents in Pearl Lagoon while I am in CR. After another boat ride and a few chicken buses I made it to Managua. The next morning, I was on the express bus to Peñas blancas.

Crossing the border on foot is actually very simple, at least it would be if not for the sharks. What I mean by sharks, are the people who accost you as soon as you get off the bus. As soon as you get off they swarm you with all kinds of schemes to try and make some money. Some offer to help with your bags for a tip, others offer advice. They are VERY persistent and will not take no for an answer, if you set your bag down they will take it. Worse yet however, are those that impersonate officials to try and get your money. Heres a few scams I've seen:

1: customs forms on the bus
If you're on the ordinario or express bus (not ticabus) someone will come and hand you a customs form, or even fill it out for you, asking for your information, destination etc. This form is legitmiate, but the scam is that they will then ask for 20 cordobas or more for the form. Customs will provide you with the form on the costa rica side of the border -free- and you can fill it out yourself right there. It does not need to be done in advance.

2: boleto de regreso
Sometimes, costa rican immigration will require you to show proof of onward travel. This can be many things, such as an itinerary or bus ticket. Before you reach the border however, and as you get off the bus people will try to sell you an open bus ticket for $30-$35. They wear uniforms, and insist that you must buy the ticket or you cannot pass or enter the border. They may sometimes admit that you can buy the ticket once you get to the border, but they claim it will cost more. That is a lie, it actually costs $10 less at the border. I went through the entire border crossing, and at the final stage at the costa rican customs office, they asked me for proof of onward travel. I was able to buy the same open ticket (its good for 1 year and can be used to cross multiple times) for $25 at a ticabus kiosk -directly- across the street from the office where it was needed. Theres also an ATM that accepts visa there, and dispenses colones and dollars.

3: taxis
Not really a scam, just a bad deal. They will take you to whatever town you're going to, but at about 10x the price of the air-conditioned bus waiting just a few steps ahead. Bus costs $2-3 from the border to managua, or the same to la cruz or liberia on the costa rica side.

4. Various forms and papers you dont even need.
Again, people in uniform will try to sell you all manner of documents. Heres what you really need:
- passport
Oh... thats it.

5. Fake immigration officials
Heres something that happened to me today. I had just exited nicaragua, and paid the exit tax of $2, and $1 for passing through. Both of these were paid at a -desk- with a cashier. The passage fee outside the door, and the exit tax inside the building at which point i recieved an exit stamp in my passport. As you walk through "no man's land" between the two countries, there is a shelter with two police officers waiting next to the road. They call you in and check your passport, nothing else. Just before entering however a man stepped in front of me, wearing a uniform that vaguely resembled that of the immigration department. He had some kind of ID card around his neck but I couldnt read it clearly. He asked for my passport and had a handful of costa rican immigration forms. I declined, but he insisted, and then showed me his id card again and explained that he worked there and that I was required to show him my passport, I reluctantly let him see it and he started filling out the form, after asking my destination and nationality he said the form would cost $10. I asked why, and he just said that that was the fee and I had no choice. I took my passport back, and politely told him to give me a moment while I ask the police officer inside the booth. The officer looked at my passport and told me to carry on. When i asked him about the document, he shook his head and said that I get that on the costa rica side. I turned around to see where the man who wanted $10 for the form was, but he was nowhere to be seen. Upon arriving on the costa rica side, the -real- immigration officer who was sitting at a desk inside the building gave me the same form for free and i filled it out myself.

In the end, it cost me exactly $3 to cross the border. $1 just before entering the building at a kiosk, this is apparently a local tax from the town of peñas blancas, and is legitimate. Second, $2 fee for exiting nicaragua, this is paid inside at the same time they put the exit stamp in your passport. Now, sometimes you will need proof of onward travel. I had an open ticket from 6 months ago so I didnt need to buy another one. I then took the bus to la Cruz, which costs 450 colones ($1) going back there is also an exit fee for costa rica, and then another $10 to enter Nicaragua. Anything asked of you in addition to this is a scam. I've found the best strategy to getting through it all is very simple. Ignore everyone. Thats it, be a jerk if you have to, don't make eye contact with anyone and dont stop moving untill you get to the door of the bulding. Only show your passport to police officers and people behind a desk. You can tell the police officers are real because they have machine guns.

Now, as for returning to Nicaragua the same day I'm really not sure. Immigration department in Bluefields told me that it has to be 3 days, but I've heard many people say they came back the same day. They claim its legal, and the shark who wanted $10 for the form also told me it was legal (wouldn't consider him a credible source though). Another shark offered to help me get back the same day if I gave something to "help out" the officials. I also read online of someone who went back the same day, but they were stopped by the police and asked for a bribe. It sounds sketchy to me, so I just plan on staying the 3 days.